By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=David_Chett]David Chett
Okay, you've decided to man up and take on your own wood working project. You need wood for your project and not just any kind of wood but the perfect type of wood. You find yourself at the lumberyard and have absolutely no idea what to look for. No need to worry, this article covers what to look for and will help you when you consider buying wood for woodworking.
The first to note is choosing the correct type of wood is going to lead you to success. You see, wood has its own personality and each type acts differently. That's why you need to know what to look for. While keeping this in mind, know that that you don't need to be an expert to construct beautiful and luxury wood projects but you do need to be aware of a few key points. Let's take a look at some of these points below:
Grades of Wood- Every single type of wood has a grade that is assigned to it. When we refer to "grade," we mean the quality of the wood. For example, wood that contains knots and cracks in it will yield a lower grade of wood. For starters, find the type of wood with the fewest defects and don't find yourself relying on the grade of the wood. Inspect it yourself and don't let the price scare you off (you're making beautiful and luxury art work, remember?) If you plan to paint the wood, choosing a lower grade will be okay but remember that when the quality is lower, so is the over strength.
Milling - When we talk about how wood is milled, know that there (3) three ways that we can refer too: plain-saw (cutting the board on all sides starting from the outside and traveling to the center), through and through (this method is the easiest and most efficient way to cut a log), quarter-sawn (when buying wood for woodworking, this type of board is the least efficient route to take but the most attractive).
Choose the Correct Cut - While talking about the wood cuts, we refer to plain sawn which is the most common type of wood in the lumber yard. These types of boards also bend and warp easier than the other type of cuts due to the direction of the grain in the wood. Rift-sawn which are the middle of the line when speaking of price but have a straight pattern in the grain. Quarter-sawn are the most expensive of the three boards and could be considered better of the (3) three boards also. Consider all types when planning your project. There's no reason to rush into a decision.
While we could go farther into depth, the above will get you started without overwhelming you. Consider these the basics when you debate buying wood for woodworking. You'll need to learn all of these if you want to make a useful hobby from the woodworking and if you wish to be successful in your future projects. Give it a shot and remember to be patient. You need to walk before you run!
Want to learn about more ways to get your brain flowing when thinking about [http://www.answersforwoodworking.com/designing-in-wood//]woodworking beginner projects? Consider visiting my website at [http://www.answersforwoodworking.com]Answers for Woodworking which also provide helpful tips on all aspects of woodworking.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-to-Consider-When-Buying-Wood-for-Woodworking---Its-Important&id=6682593] What to Consider When Buying Wood for Woodworking - It's Important
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Monday, February 27, 2012
Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
To build a storage shed in your backyard takes planning and creativity. Most sheds are constructed from wood when built from scratch, others are assembled from shed kits and are generally constructed with plywood or metal. Some sheds, however, are built using brick because the owner wants to match the construction of the house or because the owner believes he is adding strength to the structure.
Perhaps one remembers the story of the Three Little Pigs and fears the big bad wolf blowing down his outdoor shed. Nevertheless, a brick shed will outlast a more traditional wooden shed if neither structure is maintained.
Look, if you maintain your shed then either construction material is just fine. For this reason and this reason alone, I only recommend building a shed in from brick if, and only if, your decision is aesthetic and not structural. Any well-built shed will last several lifetimes if properly maintained.
That being said here is a brief five-step guide for building a brick storage building or shed in your backyard.
Step 1
The first step in any construction project is to determine the location of the shed. Make sure you choose a location that is relatively flat, has good drainage, is not directly on any property line, is not too close to trees which may cause problems for your shed roof or foundation (remember trees have a large root system below the surface). Also make certain that your shed foundation is not interfering with any electrical, cable or water lines. Overlook any one of these and you'll have a potentially costly problem on your hands.
One other thing to think about at this stage is to make absolutely certain that your shed design complies with local building codes and zoning ordinances. The best way to do this is to apply for a permit. In some cases, if you live in a planned community, you may need permission to build the shed from your Home Owner's Association. Don't make the mistake of not asking because the HOA has broad powers to make you comply with their decisions.
Step 2
Once all approvals and permits are obtained it is time to clean the area where your shed will be built. Remove any debris, roots, weeds, rocks, and other hindrances. Level the ground if necessary. Using a chalk line or stakes, draw an outline of the shed's footprint on the ground.
Step 3
Now it is time to start digging. Your task is to create a foundation for your shed. Building a strong foundation determines the strength and stability of your shed and is a step that must not be taken lightly. Depending on where you live, you'll need to dig to a depth that is just below the frost line. This will assure that your shed will not heave due to ground swells caused by expanding soil due to freezing. Your minimum depth for a solid foundation is eight inches and most areas require no more than thirty-six inches. It is best to check with your local building department to know the exact depth to dig. You can rent a small back hoe or trenching machine, or you can hire an experienced excavator to do this step for you. You want the bottom of your trench level all the way around.
The outside of the trench must be about one inch beyond the outline of your building and should be four to six inches wide. Now using 2x6 lumber and stakes, create a form extending above the level of the ground.
Step 4
It's time to pour concrete for your foundation. Pour the concrete to a level of about two to three inches above ground level. Unless you are a martyr call your local concrete supplier and order a truck with the right amount of yardage to fill the hole. Tell the company the dimensions and they'll tell you just what you need. Ask for advice about the mix needed for strength and permanence for your area. Make sure the top of the foundation is relatively level though it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth. Leave the concrete to set. In about 24 hours remove the forms but don't toss the material away. You can reuse it for door frames and other things like ceiling joists. Normally this is the time to call for your first inspection. Do so before you proceed.
Now you may want to pour a concrete slab for the shed floor. Again call your concrete supplier and tell him your dimensions. A 3 to 4 inch slab is sufficient for your purposes. You'll also want to buy some rebar or wire mesh to add strength and stability to the slab.
Step 5
Now mark the foundation walls for rough door openings making sure you account for the finished size of the opening and go wide enough to accommodate that size. Also, if you are adding windows make sure you know where to leave openings for the rough opening as well.
Spread your bricks on the ground and set a level string around each wall of the shed. Mix a batch of mortar (rent a mortar mixer from your local home center) and apply a layer of mortar to the foundation to accommodate around 5 to 7 bricks. Lay bricks one at a time making sure they are level. Use the string as a guideline. Repeat all around the foundation wall. As you build layers repeat the same idea but place your bricks so they are centered over the space between the two bricks below. Repeat until you have reached the height of your building.
At the door and window openings you'll need to place a header across the top of the opening so the bricks above will remain in place. You can use a thin steel header or a piece of 4x4 timber to act as a header. Don't overlook this step.
The final step is to build your roof. This is a common shed building activity so I won't go into that here. When you build a storage building from bricks you have to pay attention to the details of the construction process. Follow these steps and you'll build a strong brick shed.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/build-storage-building]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Build-a-Storage-Building:-A-Five-Step-Guide-for-Building-a-Brick-Shed&id=6683786] Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
To build a storage shed in your backyard takes planning and creativity. Most sheds are constructed from wood when built from scratch, others are assembled from shed kits and are generally constructed with plywood or metal. Some sheds, however, are built using brick because the owner wants to match the construction of the house or because the owner believes he is adding strength to the structure.
Perhaps one remembers the story of the Three Little Pigs and fears the big bad wolf blowing down his outdoor shed. Nevertheless, a brick shed will outlast a more traditional wooden shed if neither structure is maintained.
Look, if you maintain your shed then either construction material is just fine. For this reason and this reason alone, I only recommend building a shed in from brick if, and only if, your decision is aesthetic and not structural. Any well-built shed will last several lifetimes if properly maintained.
That being said here is a brief five-step guide for building a brick storage building or shed in your backyard.
Step 1
The first step in any construction project is to determine the location of the shed. Make sure you choose a location that is relatively flat, has good drainage, is not directly on any property line, is not too close to trees which may cause problems for your shed roof or foundation (remember trees have a large root system below the surface). Also make certain that your shed foundation is not interfering with any electrical, cable or water lines. Overlook any one of these and you'll have a potentially costly problem on your hands.
One other thing to think about at this stage is to make absolutely certain that your shed design complies with local building codes and zoning ordinances. The best way to do this is to apply for a permit. In some cases, if you live in a planned community, you may need permission to build the shed from your Home Owner's Association. Don't make the mistake of not asking because the HOA has broad powers to make you comply with their decisions.
Step 2
Once all approvals and permits are obtained it is time to clean the area where your shed will be built. Remove any debris, roots, weeds, rocks, and other hindrances. Level the ground if necessary. Using a chalk line or stakes, draw an outline of the shed's footprint on the ground.
Step 3
Now it is time to start digging. Your task is to create a foundation for your shed. Building a strong foundation determines the strength and stability of your shed and is a step that must not be taken lightly. Depending on where you live, you'll need to dig to a depth that is just below the frost line. This will assure that your shed will not heave due to ground swells caused by expanding soil due to freezing. Your minimum depth for a solid foundation is eight inches and most areas require no more than thirty-six inches. It is best to check with your local building department to know the exact depth to dig. You can rent a small back hoe or trenching machine, or you can hire an experienced excavator to do this step for you. You want the bottom of your trench level all the way around.
The outside of the trench must be about one inch beyond the outline of your building and should be four to six inches wide. Now using 2x6 lumber and stakes, create a form extending above the level of the ground.
Step 4
It's time to pour concrete for your foundation. Pour the concrete to a level of about two to three inches above ground level. Unless you are a martyr call your local concrete supplier and order a truck with the right amount of yardage to fill the hole. Tell the company the dimensions and they'll tell you just what you need. Ask for advice about the mix needed for strength and permanence for your area. Make sure the top of the foundation is relatively level though it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth. Leave the concrete to set. In about 24 hours remove the forms but don't toss the material away. You can reuse it for door frames and other things like ceiling joists. Normally this is the time to call for your first inspection. Do so before you proceed.
Now you may want to pour a concrete slab for the shed floor. Again call your concrete supplier and tell him your dimensions. A 3 to 4 inch slab is sufficient for your purposes. You'll also want to buy some rebar or wire mesh to add strength and stability to the slab.
Step 5
Now mark the foundation walls for rough door openings making sure you account for the finished size of the opening and go wide enough to accommodate that size. Also, if you are adding windows make sure you know where to leave openings for the rough opening as well.
Spread your bricks on the ground and set a level string around each wall of the shed. Mix a batch of mortar (rent a mortar mixer from your local home center) and apply a layer of mortar to the foundation to accommodate around 5 to 7 bricks. Lay bricks one at a time making sure they are level. Use the string as a guideline. Repeat all around the foundation wall. As you build layers repeat the same idea but place your bricks so they are centered over the space between the two bricks below. Repeat until you have reached the height of your building.
At the door and window openings you'll need to place a header across the top of the opening so the bricks above will remain in place. You can use a thin steel header or a piece of 4x4 timber to act as a header. Don't overlook this step.
The final step is to build your roof. This is a common shed building activity so I won't go into that here. When you build a storage building from bricks you have to pay attention to the details of the construction process. Follow these steps and you'll build a strong brick shed.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/build-storage-building]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Build-a-Storage-Building:-A-Five-Step-Guide-for-Building-a-Brick-Shed&id=6683786] Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
Sheds come in all sizes and shapes and are built for many varied purposes. An often overlooked shed design plan is for building a firewood shed. I want to address that oversight right now.
Firewood, no matter whether you cut it yourself or buy it from a supplier, is a costly investment either in terms of labor or cold hard cash. It is important to keep your firewood dry and ready to go because if your wood gets wet it doesn't burn efficiently and you'll get a great deal of smoke and steam produced as the fire burns. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow then building a firewood shed may just be the answer to the problem of keeping your firewood dry and ready for use no matter what the conditions might be.
As with any shed design, the location of your shed is of paramount importance and should not be taken lightly. You want to put the shed in an area where the ground drains well, is preferably higher than low points on your property and is likely to have more natural protection from rain and snowfall than other points in your yard. It should also be built close to the house so that in times of heavy rain or snow or when the temperature is blisteringly cold, you don't have so far to walk to collect firewood for burning. I like to build a firewood shed using one outside wall of the house as the back wall of my shed.
A simple roof, on that has a rather steep slant to it will assure that rain and snow easily slides off the roof and is directed away from the dry firewood being stored inside.
I also like to build the shed with an open front in order to make access to the wood easy for both initial storage and for retrieval when needed.
That's why most firewood sheds are built with only three sides. In addition to the access issue, the open front allows for air circulation which contributes to keeping the firewood completely dry. It is important to keep the open front facing away from the prevailing direction of the wind in your area. In the Northern Hemisphere that means that the front of the shed should face south.
In order to further protect your firewood from moisture, the floor of the shed should slant slightly toward the open front and you should line the floor with a strong plastic sheeting material.
Of course, most firewood sheds are actually quite small. As you stack wood in the shed, if you only stack a single row of cut firewood, your shed needs to be no more than 3 to 4 feet wide. This width will provide adequate protection from rain and snow. They don't have to be too tall either. If you are storing a cord of wood, then about 4 feet high and 6 feet long will be sufficient.
It should go without saying but, as with any construction project, obtaining the best shed design plan is crucial to the success of your project. Having the right plans will assure that your project proceeds without a hitch.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-design-plan]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Design-Plan:-Building-a-Firewood-Shed&id=6687156] Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
Sheds come in all sizes and shapes and are built for many varied purposes. An often overlooked shed design plan is for building a firewood shed. I want to address that oversight right now.
Firewood, no matter whether you cut it yourself or buy it from a supplier, is a costly investment either in terms of labor or cold hard cash. It is important to keep your firewood dry and ready to go because if your wood gets wet it doesn't burn efficiently and you'll get a great deal of smoke and steam produced as the fire burns. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow then building a firewood shed may just be the answer to the problem of keeping your firewood dry and ready for use no matter what the conditions might be.
As with any shed design, the location of your shed is of paramount importance and should not be taken lightly. You want to put the shed in an area where the ground drains well, is preferably higher than low points on your property and is likely to have more natural protection from rain and snowfall than other points in your yard. It should also be built close to the house so that in times of heavy rain or snow or when the temperature is blisteringly cold, you don't have so far to walk to collect firewood for burning. I like to build a firewood shed using one outside wall of the house as the back wall of my shed.
A simple roof, on that has a rather steep slant to it will assure that rain and snow easily slides off the roof and is directed away from the dry firewood being stored inside.
I also like to build the shed with an open front in order to make access to the wood easy for both initial storage and for retrieval when needed.
That's why most firewood sheds are built with only three sides. In addition to the access issue, the open front allows for air circulation which contributes to keeping the firewood completely dry. It is important to keep the open front facing away from the prevailing direction of the wind in your area. In the Northern Hemisphere that means that the front of the shed should face south.
In order to further protect your firewood from moisture, the floor of the shed should slant slightly toward the open front and you should line the floor with a strong plastic sheeting material.
Of course, most firewood sheds are actually quite small. As you stack wood in the shed, if you only stack a single row of cut firewood, your shed needs to be no more than 3 to 4 feet wide. This width will provide adequate protection from rain and snow. They don't have to be too tall either. If you are storing a cord of wood, then about 4 feet high and 6 feet long will be sufficient.
It should go without saying but, as with any construction project, obtaining the best shed design plan is crucial to the success of your project. Having the right plans will assure that your project proceeds without a hitch.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-design-plan]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Design-Plan:-Building-a-Firewood-Shed&id=6687156] Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
Thursday, February 23, 2012
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Markfield]John Markfield
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
Sunday, February 19, 2012
How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Friday, February 17, 2012
How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_J_Ellis]Kenneth J Ellis
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
Building a storage shed on your property is nothing to take lightly. Not only is a shed a big investment of both time and money, it is a big decision as you work through shed plan designs that will work for you. You must consider many things as you make the decision to build. Things like shed size and design that comply with local building codes as well as meet the requirements of any home owner's association guidelines must be made. Then you must decide whether to build the shed yourself or have it built by a contractor. Finally, you must decide on the material you wish to use in building your shed.
Have You Ever Considered Steel
Steel sheds are the choice for storage on many farms today. They are also used as warehouse buildings, garages, and other kinds of structures that require strength and durability with low maintenance requirements.
As a building material, steel is not as expensive as you might assume it to be. Not only can you build a steel shed for right around the cost of a more traditional shed built from wood, the cost to maintain the steel shed over time is significantly less than maintaining wood.
Constructing steel sheds is generally not thought of as a do-it-yourself project. Special equipment like cranes for lifting the skeleton into place are needed to expedite the process. Steel is also not as forgiving as wood to work with. If something doesn't quite align with wood you can make adjustments on the spot. With steel, if the bolt holes are out of alignment you have done something wrong in an earlier step and you'll find it difficult to make necessary adjustments.
Steel construction is generally stronger and more durable than wood construction. That's because steel, made from iron and carbon combined at very high temperatures, is an extraordinarily strong material. Steel is, however, quite hard and parts must be fabricated off site. The steel used in construction will vary in strength based on the percentages of iron and carbon contained in the steel. The more carbon the harder and stronger the steel will be.
Steel shed design is more limited than a wooden shed design. That being said, if you are looking for a basic shed design, say 10 x 20 foot design, you probably aren't looking for a fancy building with gabled roof designs and the like. In that case, a steel shed is just as functional as a wooden shed.
Of course, you must think about maintenance when it comes to any shed building you decide to build. Steel, if taken care of, will last a long time. In the long-run, steel requires less maintenance than wood. You'll never get termites, carpenter ants, or other pests that like to eat the wood found in a traditional shed. Steel doesn't support the growth of fungi or other mold spores and it is unlikely to support mildew as well.
In harsh climates, especially those where snow loads are an issue, steel also is a wise investment. Your steel shed will take a greater snow load and be far less likely to collapse under the weight of a heavy, wet snow.
The point is, of course, when you are considering shed plan designs it is wise to consider building your shed from steel as a viable alternative to building with wood.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-plan-designs]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Plan-Designs:-A-Steel-Shed?-Perhaps!&id=6692497] Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
Building a storage shed on your property is nothing to take lightly. Not only is a shed a big investment of both time and money, it is a big decision as you work through shed plan designs that will work for you. You must consider many things as you make the decision to build. Things like shed size and design that comply with local building codes as well as meet the requirements of any home owner's association guidelines must be made. Then you must decide whether to build the shed yourself or have it built by a contractor. Finally, you must decide on the material you wish to use in building your shed.
Have You Ever Considered Steel
Steel sheds are the choice for storage on many farms today. They are also used as warehouse buildings, garages, and other kinds of structures that require strength and durability with low maintenance requirements.
As a building material, steel is not as expensive as you might assume it to be. Not only can you build a steel shed for right around the cost of a more traditional shed built from wood, the cost to maintain the steel shed over time is significantly less than maintaining wood.
Constructing steel sheds is generally not thought of as a do-it-yourself project. Special equipment like cranes for lifting the skeleton into place are needed to expedite the process. Steel is also not as forgiving as wood to work with. If something doesn't quite align with wood you can make adjustments on the spot. With steel, if the bolt holes are out of alignment you have done something wrong in an earlier step and you'll find it difficult to make necessary adjustments.
Steel construction is generally stronger and more durable than wood construction. That's because steel, made from iron and carbon combined at very high temperatures, is an extraordinarily strong material. Steel is, however, quite hard and parts must be fabricated off site. The steel used in construction will vary in strength based on the percentages of iron and carbon contained in the steel. The more carbon the harder and stronger the steel will be.
Steel shed design is more limited than a wooden shed design. That being said, if you are looking for a basic shed design, say 10 x 20 foot design, you probably aren't looking for a fancy building with gabled roof designs and the like. In that case, a steel shed is just as functional as a wooden shed.
Of course, you must think about maintenance when it comes to any shed building you decide to build. Steel, if taken care of, will last a long time. In the long-run, steel requires less maintenance than wood. You'll never get termites, carpenter ants, or other pests that like to eat the wood found in a traditional shed. Steel doesn't support the growth of fungi or other mold spores and it is unlikely to support mildew as well.
In harsh climates, especially those where snow loads are an issue, steel also is a wise investment. Your steel shed will take a greater snow load and be far less likely to collapse under the weight of a heavy, wet snow.
The point is, of course, when you are considering shed plan designs it is wise to consider building your shed from steel as a viable alternative to building with wood.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-plan-designs]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Plan-Designs:-A-Steel-Shed?-Perhaps!&id=6692497] Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
Monday, February 13, 2012
How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Steve_Wilmer]Steve Wilmer
There are many tools that are needed to craft fine wooden projects, but none as underutilized as the router. Routers have really evolved over the years from its bulky cousin the shaper. Many factors come into play when choosing the correct router for your woodworking projects. With these tips you will gain a better understanding of what each router has to offer and which will be best suited for the wood projects you have in mind.
One of the first things you should look at when considering a router is the location of the on/off switch. It should be placed so that you can reach it without letting go of the handles. Other standard features to look for are a base with a clear view to the bit so you can see where you are routing, a speed control so you can use various sizes of bits and, finally, a dust collection port. These items aren't mandatory but they will make your woodworking projects easier. If you have already purchased a router, don't worry. You may not have to buy a new one because you can add these features to most routers with some accessories. You can purchase a clear universal base that you can attach to most routers with some simple layouts to align them to your router.
Speed controls are important if you would like to use large bits such as raised panel bits. These bits require slower rpm's because of their size. You can add an external speed control to your router to adjust the speeds as needed allowing you to use these larger bits on your wood projects.
One last feature that you should look at before considering a specific router is the collet that holds the bit to the router motor. The most versatile routers can accept a 1/4" and 1/2" collet so you can use a wide variety of bits. The collet should also have multiple segments. If the collet only has two or three segments there is the possibility the bit will slip, however if there are multiple segments there will be many contact points on the bit and the bit won't slip. Be careful when loading the bits because many people make the error of over tightening the bits and this can cause unnecessary wear on the collet.
Along with the variety of features to choose from, there are also various styles of routers to choose from: fixed base, plunge router, laminate trimmer, and miniature router. For most of the common woodworking functions, you will do well with a fixed base or a plunge router. There are even routers available with interchangeable bases so you don't have to choose, you can just switch between fixed base and plunge base.
After you have chosen the style that you would like you should also consider other projects you will be attempting so you have an idea of other accessories you will need. It is a good idea to consider a router table which allows you to mount the router upside down and feed your stock over the bit instead of holding the router and running the bit over your stock. If you can't find a table that fits the router you have chosen, you can always make your own table which is sometimes a much better choice because you can customize it to your specific needs.
If you keep these features and needs in mind when choosing a router I am sure you will get a tool that you are not only very pleased with but that will also last for years of your carpentry needs. Just remember, when comparing costs, if you spend a little more on the perfect router you can quite possibly eliminate the need for a different style of router later. Good luck in your search for your perfect router. With a little a little patience and these tips in mind I know you will find it.
Steve Wilmer is the owner of WilmerWoodWorks and operates http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com which provides free woodworking plans, great woodworking ideas and instructional videos. WilmerWoodWorks also offers handmade wooden crafts for the young and the not-so-young, including toys, home decor, furniture and gizmos. There are items for sale online at [http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store]http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store. In addition, we will provide custom pieces at your request.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Perfect-Router-for-Your-Woodworking-Projects&id=6689721] How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
There are many tools that are needed to craft fine wooden projects, but none as underutilized as the router. Routers have really evolved over the years from its bulky cousin the shaper. Many factors come into play when choosing the correct router for your woodworking projects. With these tips you will gain a better understanding of what each router has to offer and which will be best suited for the wood projects you have in mind.
One of the first things you should look at when considering a router is the location of the on/off switch. It should be placed so that you can reach it without letting go of the handles. Other standard features to look for are a base with a clear view to the bit so you can see where you are routing, a speed control so you can use various sizes of bits and, finally, a dust collection port. These items aren't mandatory but they will make your woodworking projects easier. If you have already purchased a router, don't worry. You may not have to buy a new one because you can add these features to most routers with some accessories. You can purchase a clear universal base that you can attach to most routers with some simple layouts to align them to your router.
Speed controls are important if you would like to use large bits such as raised panel bits. These bits require slower rpm's because of their size. You can add an external speed control to your router to adjust the speeds as needed allowing you to use these larger bits on your wood projects.
One last feature that you should look at before considering a specific router is the collet that holds the bit to the router motor. The most versatile routers can accept a 1/4" and 1/2" collet so you can use a wide variety of bits. The collet should also have multiple segments. If the collet only has two or three segments there is the possibility the bit will slip, however if there are multiple segments there will be many contact points on the bit and the bit won't slip. Be careful when loading the bits because many people make the error of over tightening the bits and this can cause unnecessary wear on the collet.
Along with the variety of features to choose from, there are also various styles of routers to choose from: fixed base, plunge router, laminate trimmer, and miniature router. For most of the common woodworking functions, you will do well with a fixed base or a plunge router. There are even routers available with interchangeable bases so you don't have to choose, you can just switch between fixed base and plunge base.
After you have chosen the style that you would like you should also consider other projects you will be attempting so you have an idea of other accessories you will need. It is a good idea to consider a router table which allows you to mount the router upside down and feed your stock over the bit instead of holding the router and running the bit over your stock. If you can't find a table that fits the router you have chosen, you can always make your own table which is sometimes a much better choice because you can customize it to your specific needs.
If you keep these features and needs in mind when choosing a router I am sure you will get a tool that you are not only very pleased with but that will also last for years of your carpentry needs. Just remember, when comparing costs, if you spend a little more on the perfect router you can quite possibly eliminate the need for a different style of router later. Good luck in your search for your perfect router. With a little a little patience and these tips in mind I know you will find it.
Steve Wilmer is the owner of WilmerWoodWorks and operates http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com which provides free woodworking plans, great woodworking ideas and instructional videos. WilmerWoodWorks also offers handmade wooden crafts for the young and the not-so-young, including toys, home decor, furniture and gizmos. There are items for sale online at [http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store]http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store. In addition, we will provide custom pieces at your request.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Perfect-Router-for-Your-Woodworking-Projects&id=6689721] How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Small Wood Projects - How to Find the Most Suitable Woodworking Projects for Kids
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_D_Lee]Mike D Lee
Woodworking is the best way to enhance a kid's puzzle solving skills and unleash their hidden creativity. It is natural for kids to be excited when working with small wood projects. Every little project that he could finish will improve his self-esteem and slowly improve his skills. Who knows? Your kid may be the next woodworking master in the future.
Woodworking is a great dad and son bonding activity and a great hobby, but always remember that a child is still a child. The wood he's using could still chip and form sharp edges, so it is the best that you don't allow your child to complete his small wood projects by himself. A good mentor should always be by his side to direct his moves -- and take note, only to direct his moves. If you are going to use power tools, make sure that you stand a safe distance away from your child before using it and never allow him to try the tool out.
Safety First
Choosing a woodworking project for a kid is quite simple. As explained above, always put his safety first. Don't pick projects that require you to use professional tools. Your kid will not have fun with woodworking if you do everything. Choose small wood projects that he could perform easily by himself and require minimal assistance. This will allow him to grow and give him personal insights to how things work.
Start Easy
Remember that every project he completes will improve his self-esteem and get him all charged up to start with the next one. Choose small wood projects that are fairly easy to do for a kid. It will also help greatly if he could use or display the project he will work on. Some ideas for wood projects include a simple tray for his toys, or a small chessboard. You can look for woodworking ideas on the Internet, which includes comprehensive and easy to follow guides for professionals, beginners and kids.
There are all kinds of woodworking projects for kids available on the Internet. A good project plan includes easy to follow step-by-step guides and a full list of the different materials you need. Assist your kid to collect and remember the names of each material. Also, let him make out the instructions by himself and assist him only if the instruction requires the help of a parent, like it is hard to understand or if he asks you to show him how to do it. Just remember never to leave his side while completing a small wood project. Moral support is the best assistance you could give him!
Do you want small wood projects which comes in step by step, easy to follow instructions which you can use as woodworking projects for kids? Gain access and download these professional plans at http://www.tedswoodworkingreviewsite.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Small-Wood-Projects---How-to-Find-the-Most-Suitable-Woodworking-Projects-for-Kids&id=6696507] Small Wood Projects - How to Find the Most Suitable Woodworking Projects for Kids
Woodworking is the best way to enhance a kid's puzzle solving skills and unleash their hidden creativity. It is natural for kids to be excited when working with small wood projects. Every little project that he could finish will improve his self-esteem and slowly improve his skills. Who knows? Your kid may be the next woodworking master in the future.
Woodworking is a great dad and son bonding activity and a great hobby, but always remember that a child is still a child. The wood he's using could still chip and form sharp edges, so it is the best that you don't allow your child to complete his small wood projects by himself. A good mentor should always be by his side to direct his moves -- and take note, only to direct his moves. If you are going to use power tools, make sure that you stand a safe distance away from your child before using it and never allow him to try the tool out.
Safety First
Choosing a woodworking project for a kid is quite simple. As explained above, always put his safety first. Don't pick projects that require you to use professional tools. Your kid will not have fun with woodworking if you do everything. Choose small wood projects that he could perform easily by himself and require minimal assistance. This will allow him to grow and give him personal insights to how things work.
Start Easy
Remember that every project he completes will improve his self-esteem and get him all charged up to start with the next one. Choose small wood projects that are fairly easy to do for a kid. It will also help greatly if he could use or display the project he will work on. Some ideas for wood projects include a simple tray for his toys, or a small chessboard. You can look for woodworking ideas on the Internet, which includes comprehensive and easy to follow guides for professionals, beginners and kids.
There are all kinds of woodworking projects for kids available on the Internet. A good project plan includes easy to follow step-by-step guides and a full list of the different materials you need. Assist your kid to collect and remember the names of each material. Also, let him make out the instructions by himself and assist him only if the instruction requires the help of a parent, like it is hard to understand or if he asks you to show him how to do it. Just remember never to leave his side while completing a small wood project. Moral support is the best assistance you could give him!
Do you want small wood projects which comes in step by step, easy to follow instructions which you can use as woodworking projects for kids? Gain access and download these professional plans at http://www.tedswoodworkingreviewsite.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Small-Wood-Projects---How-to-Find-the-Most-Suitable-Woodworking-Projects-for-Kids&id=6696507] Small Wood Projects - How to Find the Most Suitable Woodworking Projects for Kids
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Handmade, Homemade Rustic Dining Table
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
Being that the dining room is one of the main communal rooms of the house, I think it's certainly worth investing in durable, aesthetically pleasing furniture. If you have more people than can comfortably sit around one table, you should consider getting one larger table instead of two smaller ones. Larger single units of furniture rather than several smaller pieces make the room less cluttered.
I personally like the rustic-style furniture where pieces are built big, heavy, and durable. Of course, there are many different styles and motifs to choose from, and they all have their own unique pros and cons. Not everyone digs the country flavor. One big reason some opt for other styles is that individual pieces are often more expensive than the equivalent in other styles due to often being hand-made and requiring more expensive materials.
Our prior setup was honestly, not all that flattering. We have a rather large number of people living here making it necessary to have at least two dining tables. The problems we faced were these:
They were both different heights.
They were both different colors.
They were both different sizes, shapes, and styles.
Bottom line - it looked pretty darn bad. Using Google Sketchup I created an initial model of the table from where I then exported several screen shots of key angles. By printing out the relevant screen shots and clipping them onto a clip board for example, you don't have to keep referring back to the Sketchup file while in the workshop. All components should be made to life-size and dimensioned for accuracy.
Software programs like Sketchup help tremendously when dealing with angles and notching. The 3d model, when made to life-size, allows you to accurately integrate any angles you desire in any position and size. More specifically, the precise integration of notch-work to accommodate an inlay-style of component attachment is made not only possible, but quite simple, by such 3d software.
To Notch or not to Notch...?
I strongly recommend notch-work for furniture as it makes it considerably more stable over time. As you may know, wood tends to change shape over time due to the absorption and desorption of moisture from its surroundings. This is why high-quality hardwoods that have been seasoned thoroughly are most commonly used by furniture makers.
But even then, and more so if you're using lower-end wood, notch-work is often necessary to prevent the components from warping, twisting, and pulling themselves out of alignment. Young, unseasoned lumber is extremely unstable, and if you find yourself using this type of wood, I would advise notching all joints at least a quarter-inch or about 5 millimeters to prevent the above kind of behavior.
By using a combination of notch-work, appropriate fasteners, and glue, as well as sealing the entire surface area of each component, you can create furniture that can rival most professionally made pieces. Sealing the surface area is important as this is where moisture enters and leaves. In most cases, you would probably do this via a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/homemade-stain/]stain or varnish anyway, for looks.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Handmade,-Homemade-Rustic-Dining-Table&id=6696872] Handmade, Homemade Rustic Dining Table
Being that the dining room is one of the main communal rooms of the house, I think it's certainly worth investing in durable, aesthetically pleasing furniture. If you have more people than can comfortably sit around one table, you should consider getting one larger table instead of two smaller ones. Larger single units of furniture rather than several smaller pieces make the room less cluttered.
I personally like the rustic-style furniture where pieces are built big, heavy, and durable. Of course, there are many different styles and motifs to choose from, and they all have their own unique pros and cons. Not everyone digs the country flavor. One big reason some opt for other styles is that individual pieces are often more expensive than the equivalent in other styles due to often being hand-made and requiring more expensive materials.
Our prior setup was honestly, not all that flattering. We have a rather large number of people living here making it necessary to have at least two dining tables. The problems we faced were these:
They were both different heights.
They were both different colors.
They were both different sizes, shapes, and styles.
Bottom line - it looked pretty darn bad. Using Google Sketchup I created an initial model of the table from where I then exported several screen shots of key angles. By printing out the relevant screen shots and clipping them onto a clip board for example, you don't have to keep referring back to the Sketchup file while in the workshop. All components should be made to life-size and dimensioned for accuracy.
Software programs like Sketchup help tremendously when dealing with angles and notching. The 3d model, when made to life-size, allows you to accurately integrate any angles you desire in any position and size. More specifically, the precise integration of notch-work to accommodate an inlay-style of component attachment is made not only possible, but quite simple, by such 3d software.
To Notch or not to Notch...?
I strongly recommend notch-work for furniture as it makes it considerably more stable over time. As you may know, wood tends to change shape over time due to the absorption and desorption of moisture from its surroundings. This is why high-quality hardwoods that have been seasoned thoroughly are most commonly used by furniture makers.
But even then, and more so if you're using lower-end wood, notch-work is often necessary to prevent the components from warping, twisting, and pulling themselves out of alignment. Young, unseasoned lumber is extremely unstable, and if you find yourself using this type of wood, I would advise notching all joints at least a quarter-inch or about 5 millimeters to prevent the above kind of behavior.
By using a combination of notch-work, appropriate fasteners, and glue, as well as sealing the entire surface area of each component, you can create furniture that can rival most professionally made pieces. Sealing the surface area is important as this is where moisture enters and leaves. In most cases, you would probably do this via a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/homemade-stain/]stain or varnish anyway, for looks.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Handmade,-Homemade-Rustic-Dining-Table&id=6696872] Handmade, Homemade Rustic Dining Table
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Beginner Woodworking - A Simple Guide
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Amante_I_Gorospe]Amante I Gorospe
Beginning a woodworking project is very daunting, especially if you don't have a good plan to follow. A good woodworking plan is the best company for beginner woodworking projects. Finding the right woodworking plan that matches your level of expertise is very crucial. Back then, woodworking is more of a hobby to our grandparents, and plan is not necessary. They just build whatever comes in their mind. Fast forward to today's time, woodworking plan is a must.
Things to consider before starting out a woodworking project:
Idea - getting a woodworking idea is somewhat a problem for a beginner woodworker. A good idea on what to build is the key to everything. It is a must to have an idea on project to start with. Most of the time, the idea just sparks out of your mind due to necessity.
Plan - be ready to start your project with a good plan on how to finish it to save time and money. Expect to make a few mistakes and blunders on the way, but make this as a learning process mistakes.
Ask yourself these questions before starting a woodworking project:
What am I going to build? What would be my benefit in building it?
Does my skill match what I am going to build?
Is there a space where I can work on without being interrupted?
Will time be a problem when I start this project? How much time do I need?
Do I have the financial resources to buy the materials and tools needed for the project?
Answering these questions will equip you in starting your project, with a goal of finishing it.
Get a good woodworking plan - as soon as you decided on what to build according to the skills you have, a good woodworking plan is needed. This is the step-by-step instructions on how to build your project. A good woodworking plan also gives you all the list needed to finish your project, like tools you will need, the materials to use and where to buy it.
Lastly, be safety conscious - this is extremely important! It is a must! It is better to be safe than sorry. Using power tools, if you have to, must be used with caution. You should also use protective gears such as safety goggles, working gloves, safety shoes, ear plugs and carpenter's gown. Wearing this personal safety gadgets is a must! You never know what will going to happen, and you don't want to lose an eye or a finger from the new found hobby!
Before starting any woodworking project, you should do some reading and research. There are so many free reading resources on the internet where you can find basic information about beginner woodworking project. These are HowTo, DIY Guides, and self-help guides. There are also good books to read about woodworking from your local library.
You should also inventory all the necessary materials and tools you will use. The most frustrating of all is when you already started your woodworking project only to find out that you don't have all the materials needed for your project.
Above, are some of the absolute things that must be done by beginner woodworker. Working on a piece of wood and turn it into a beautiful product is very satisfying.
You can get a beginner to advance woodworking plan at http://beginner-woodworking.info
Amante Gorospe
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Beginner-Woodworking---A-Simple-Guide&id=6692883] Beginner Woodworking - A Simple Guide
Beginning a woodworking project is very daunting, especially if you don't have a good plan to follow. A good woodworking plan is the best company for beginner woodworking projects. Finding the right woodworking plan that matches your level of expertise is very crucial. Back then, woodworking is more of a hobby to our grandparents, and plan is not necessary. They just build whatever comes in their mind. Fast forward to today's time, woodworking plan is a must.
Things to consider before starting out a woodworking project:
Idea - getting a woodworking idea is somewhat a problem for a beginner woodworker. A good idea on what to build is the key to everything. It is a must to have an idea on project to start with. Most of the time, the idea just sparks out of your mind due to necessity.
Plan - be ready to start your project with a good plan on how to finish it to save time and money. Expect to make a few mistakes and blunders on the way, but make this as a learning process mistakes.
Ask yourself these questions before starting a woodworking project:
What am I going to build? What would be my benefit in building it?
Does my skill match what I am going to build?
Is there a space where I can work on without being interrupted?
Will time be a problem when I start this project? How much time do I need?
Do I have the financial resources to buy the materials and tools needed for the project?
Answering these questions will equip you in starting your project, with a goal of finishing it.
Get a good woodworking plan - as soon as you decided on what to build according to the skills you have, a good woodworking plan is needed. This is the step-by-step instructions on how to build your project. A good woodworking plan also gives you all the list needed to finish your project, like tools you will need, the materials to use and where to buy it.
Lastly, be safety conscious - this is extremely important! It is a must! It is better to be safe than sorry. Using power tools, if you have to, must be used with caution. You should also use protective gears such as safety goggles, working gloves, safety shoes, ear plugs and carpenter's gown. Wearing this personal safety gadgets is a must! You never know what will going to happen, and you don't want to lose an eye or a finger from the new found hobby!
Before starting any woodworking project, you should do some reading and research. There are so many free reading resources on the internet where you can find basic information about beginner woodworking project. These are HowTo, DIY Guides, and self-help guides. There are also good books to read about woodworking from your local library.
You should also inventory all the necessary materials and tools you will use. The most frustrating of all is when you already started your woodworking project only to find out that you don't have all the materials needed for your project.
Above, are some of the absolute things that must be done by beginner woodworker. Working on a piece of wood and turn it into a beautiful product is very satisfying.
You can get a beginner to advance woodworking plan at http://beginner-woodworking.info
Amante Gorospe
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Beginner-Woodworking---A-Simple-Guide&id=6692883] Beginner Woodworking - A Simple Guide
Sunday, February 5, 2012
How To Build A Chicken Coop Easily In One Weekend
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Alford]Andrew Alford
Building Your Own Chicken Coop Can Be a Very Smart Decision
If you've made the decision to build your own chicken coop you're a part of a growing group of Americans who are saying "No" to economic downturns, and doing something positive for themselves, their family and their own nutrition. Raising chickens and harvesting your own eggs dates back to earlier simpler times, but it's something that almost any do-it-yourselfer can do if they put their mind to it.
STEP ONE: The first step in building your own chicken coop is to study the procedures, which is what this article is about, and while it may not be comprehensive it should serve as a good starting point. By doing your homework, you'll understand more about the breed and number of chickens you'll need to satisfy your needs, as well as the chicken's tolerances to temperature and environment.
STEP TWO: Be certain to check the zoning laws in your community, this will tell you the number of chickens you can have, whether a rooster is permitted, and whether you'll need an inspector to sign off on your finished coop. Unless you're located far from any city and have ample acreage, zoning laws may be applicable, and it's best to find out before you are forced to dissemble your creation.
STEP THREE: Next comes the design, choose a design that is not only aesthetically pleasing for you (and possibly your wife or significant other) but also functional for your chickens. There are multiple designs online as well as detailed books about choosing and constructing your chicken coop. Basically, you'll want to design a chicken coop that is roofed, well ventilated and has ample space. Of course you'll need to have nesting boxes and roosts allowing your chickens to nest and sleep, exercise, and other assorted chicken like activities.
STEP FOUR: How much space do you estimate you'll need? Step four is very much part of the planning phase, and will depend on the breed and the number of hens you plan to house. Packing too many chickens into a small space is a recipe for disaster; they'll need space to move around, nest, peck the ground and of course lay their eggs, etc. While this recommended space will vary depending on the breed, approximately 4 sq. ft. per chicken has proved ample for my needs.
STEP FIVE: What is the climate in your area? While it's not necessary to have an air-conditioned chicken coop, there is an optimal climate for a particular breed, and this will need to be considered prior to building and purchasing your chickens. If you live in a cold climate, you'll need to ensure the inside not only has suitable ventilation, but also heating and insulation if required; this might include a heat lamp for young chickens, and/or a heating pad for your hens.
While chickens for the most part are easy to maintain, you'll need to keep a watchful eye, and potentially make changes to their environment as the seasons change. Plan on supplying electrical power to your chicken coop to run the necessary heating, cooling, or monitoring devices you may require.
Once you've given adequate thought and planning to your new chicken coop, it's time to set aside a weekend accomplish the task. Once your chicken coop is up and functional, and your hands used to their environment, you'll soon be enjoying fresh eggs for breakfast, and possibly answers to share with family and friends.
Did you know the average American spends over $400 trying to build their chicken coop. It can take may of them 2 months or more to come up with something that quite honestly can be less than adequate for raising healthy chickens.
You may also be surprised to know that most people who decide to [http://buildanewchickencoop.com]build a chicken coop rush in to it totally blind and without any prior planning.
Andrew Alford has been building chicken coops for many years and it you want to save time and more importantly MONEY then learn [http://buildanewchickencoop.com/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop/]How To build a chicken coop the right way first time.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Build-A-Chicken-Coop-Easily-In-One-Weekend&id=6708266] How To Build A Chicken Coop Easily In One Weekend
Building Your Own Chicken Coop Can Be a Very Smart Decision
If you've made the decision to build your own chicken coop you're a part of a growing group of Americans who are saying "No" to economic downturns, and doing something positive for themselves, their family and their own nutrition. Raising chickens and harvesting your own eggs dates back to earlier simpler times, but it's something that almost any do-it-yourselfer can do if they put their mind to it.
STEP ONE: The first step in building your own chicken coop is to study the procedures, which is what this article is about, and while it may not be comprehensive it should serve as a good starting point. By doing your homework, you'll understand more about the breed and number of chickens you'll need to satisfy your needs, as well as the chicken's tolerances to temperature and environment.
STEP TWO: Be certain to check the zoning laws in your community, this will tell you the number of chickens you can have, whether a rooster is permitted, and whether you'll need an inspector to sign off on your finished coop. Unless you're located far from any city and have ample acreage, zoning laws may be applicable, and it's best to find out before you are forced to dissemble your creation.
STEP THREE: Next comes the design, choose a design that is not only aesthetically pleasing for you (and possibly your wife or significant other) but also functional for your chickens. There are multiple designs online as well as detailed books about choosing and constructing your chicken coop. Basically, you'll want to design a chicken coop that is roofed, well ventilated and has ample space. Of course you'll need to have nesting boxes and roosts allowing your chickens to nest and sleep, exercise, and other assorted chicken like activities.
STEP FOUR: How much space do you estimate you'll need? Step four is very much part of the planning phase, and will depend on the breed and the number of hens you plan to house. Packing too many chickens into a small space is a recipe for disaster; they'll need space to move around, nest, peck the ground and of course lay their eggs, etc. While this recommended space will vary depending on the breed, approximately 4 sq. ft. per chicken has proved ample for my needs.
STEP FIVE: What is the climate in your area? While it's not necessary to have an air-conditioned chicken coop, there is an optimal climate for a particular breed, and this will need to be considered prior to building and purchasing your chickens. If you live in a cold climate, you'll need to ensure the inside not only has suitable ventilation, but also heating and insulation if required; this might include a heat lamp for young chickens, and/or a heating pad for your hens.
While chickens for the most part are easy to maintain, you'll need to keep a watchful eye, and potentially make changes to their environment as the seasons change. Plan on supplying electrical power to your chicken coop to run the necessary heating, cooling, or monitoring devices you may require.
Once you've given adequate thought and planning to your new chicken coop, it's time to set aside a weekend accomplish the task. Once your chicken coop is up and functional, and your hands used to their environment, you'll soon be enjoying fresh eggs for breakfast, and possibly answers to share with family and friends.
Did you know the average American spends over $400 trying to build their chicken coop. It can take may of them 2 months or more to come up with something that quite honestly can be less than adequate for raising healthy chickens.
You may also be surprised to know that most people who decide to [http://buildanewchickencoop.com]build a chicken coop rush in to it totally blind and without any prior planning.
Andrew Alford has been building chicken coops for many years and it you want to save time and more importantly MONEY then learn [http://buildanewchickencoop.com/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop/]How To build a chicken coop the right way first time.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Build-A-Chicken-Coop-Easily-In-One-Weekend&id=6708266] How To Build A Chicken Coop Easily In One Weekend
Friday, February 3, 2012
Affordable Materials for Bookcase Plans
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Lucas_K_Everett]Lucas K Everett
Bookcases are a great project especially if you're a beginner woodworker as they are very basic and practical piece of furniture for the house. When I say they are very basic I mean that the construction is not complicated as they are just 2 sides, a top, bottom, back and some shelves.
Of course bookcase plans can be as easy as that, or you can find bookcase plans with a lot more detail and a higher degree of difficulty, you can choose based on your own skill level.A good tip is to take any easy construction design and dress it up with some timber moulding, VJ grooves or cabriole legs to give it some elegant detail.
I was sitting around bored out of my brain on holidays the other day and my wife said 'Why don't you build a bookcase for the living room'. So I downloaded a plan that would suit the area and our tastes, my wife has a thing for modern white painted furniture at the moment.
MDF was my material of choice for this particular project so off to the hardware to get a couple of sheets of craftwood. I like to use MDF when making painted furniture because it is easy to machine and sand.
If you don't have machinery like sliding table saws and 3 phase routers you can still do a great job with standard electric woodworking tools like:
Circular saw
Electric planer
Router Jigsaw
Biscuit joiner
Drills
You can also use basic woodworking hand tools like:
Hand saw
Chisels
Hand plane
MDf comes in large range of thicknesses and sheet sizes:
4mm
6mm
9mm
12mm
16mm
18mm
25mm
32mm
The sheets are quite large:
2400x1200
3600x1200
Some hardware stores and suppliers break them down to more manageable sizes:
1800x1200
2400x600
1200x1200
My wife likes shopping so she usually lets me know what she would like, then I make the furniture item from her inspiration. If you have the inspiration to build a bookcase but don't have the hundreds or thousands of dollars to spend on new timber or maybe mdf is not available in your area there are other alternatives.
More material for your Bookcase Budget.:
Other manmade products
Pine Floor boards
You could try some demolition companies and check out their stock of recycled timbers from floorboards, floor joists, bearers, rafters to fence palings. Basically if its wood and gets used to build a house you will find it at the demo yard.
So where can you get some BOOKCASE plans?
The Internet is a very good source with websites that provide access to thousands of woodworking plans. You could try your favourite bookstore and purchase woodworking magazines or woodworking books. Get involved with a local woodworking club and share plans and knowledge face to face. Internet forum are another great way to get in touch with the woodwork community.
If you're interested in woodworking you should check out [http://timberfurnitureplans.com/]timberfurnitureplans.com and get some [http://timberfurnitureplans.com/]free plans.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Affordable-Materials-for-Bookcase-Plans&id=6703970] Affordable Materials for Bookcase Plans
Bookcases are a great project especially if you're a beginner woodworker as they are very basic and practical piece of furniture for the house. When I say they are very basic I mean that the construction is not complicated as they are just 2 sides, a top, bottom, back and some shelves.
Of course bookcase plans can be as easy as that, or you can find bookcase plans with a lot more detail and a higher degree of difficulty, you can choose based on your own skill level.A good tip is to take any easy construction design and dress it up with some timber moulding, VJ grooves or cabriole legs to give it some elegant detail.
I was sitting around bored out of my brain on holidays the other day and my wife said 'Why don't you build a bookcase for the living room'. So I downloaded a plan that would suit the area and our tastes, my wife has a thing for modern white painted furniture at the moment.
MDF was my material of choice for this particular project so off to the hardware to get a couple of sheets of craftwood. I like to use MDF when making painted furniture because it is easy to machine and sand.
If you don't have machinery like sliding table saws and 3 phase routers you can still do a great job with standard electric woodworking tools like:
Circular saw
Electric planer
Router Jigsaw
Biscuit joiner
Drills
You can also use basic woodworking hand tools like:
Hand saw
Chisels
Hand plane
MDf comes in large range of thicknesses and sheet sizes:
4mm
6mm
9mm
12mm
16mm
18mm
25mm
32mm
The sheets are quite large:
2400x1200
3600x1200
Some hardware stores and suppliers break them down to more manageable sizes:
1800x1200
2400x600
1200x1200
My wife likes shopping so she usually lets me know what she would like, then I make the furniture item from her inspiration. If you have the inspiration to build a bookcase but don't have the hundreds or thousands of dollars to spend on new timber or maybe mdf is not available in your area there are other alternatives.
More material for your Bookcase Budget.:
Other manmade products
Pine Floor boards
You could try some demolition companies and check out their stock of recycled timbers from floorboards, floor joists, bearers, rafters to fence palings. Basically if its wood and gets used to build a house you will find it at the demo yard.
So where can you get some BOOKCASE plans?
The Internet is a very good source with websites that provide access to thousands of woodworking plans. You could try your favourite bookstore and purchase woodworking magazines or woodworking books. Get involved with a local woodworking club and share plans and knowledge face to face. Internet forum are another great way to get in touch with the woodwork community.
If you're interested in woodworking you should check out [http://timberfurnitureplans.com/]timberfurnitureplans.com and get some [http://timberfurnitureplans.com/]free plans.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Affordable-Materials-for-Bookcase-Plans&id=6703970] Affordable Materials for Bookcase Plans
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Top Woodworking Projects for You
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Lucas_K_Everett]Lucas K Everett
It's coming up to Christmas again, and that means holidays for many of us. If you are like me and love to get away for a vacation, it's probably your favourite time of the year. I also like to use the opportunity to finish the current projects I have under construction and/or start new ones. Maybe you can use some of your free time to get stuck into some woodworking. If you need some ideas or having trouble getting motivated I have put together a list of top woodworking projects for you.
Do you know someone expecting a new member of the family to come along soon? If you do, you should think about making them a cradle or cot. This is a great furniture plan and can be handed around the family as new babies come along through the years. It gives great satisfaction making furniture for the ones we love. I have just recently built a bed with drawers for our 17 month old so we could use the cot for the new baby.
You could also make a nice armchair or rocking chair for when mummy has to get up through the night to feed the new baby. A chair is a great idea and with the extra skill required for this woodworking project you better get started. With the comfort of a handmade piece of furniture you'll be sure to earn some serious brownie points with the new mother. There's nothing like a due date to get a project under way.
I bet you've always wanted to build a kitchen table, well now is your chance. Everybody needs somewhere to sit down and eat their dinner. The festive season is a great time to have friends and family over for a meal and your guests will be impressed by a piece of furniture that you built with your own two hands. A very practical woodwork design and your wife will be happy for you to spend some time in your work shed. An alternative to the kitchen table could be a coffee table or have a go at making dining chairs.
If you want to try your hand at some carpentry and the weather suits, you could build a shed for your garden tools and sporting equipment. You will get a real sense of achievement from building a shed, even if it is a small garden shed. I enjoy getting out in the sun and doing some 'hard' work. Once you have built this you will have the confidence to take on something bigger next time, maybe a great big woodwork shed for yourself.
Here are the Top Woodworking Projects for You with some alternatives:
Build a Cradle
Build a Cot
Build an Armchair
Build a Rocking Chair
Build a Deck Chair
Build a Kitchen Table
Build a Coffee Table
Build some Dining Chairs
Build a Hall stand
Build a Garden Shed
Build a Pergola
Build a Carport
That's just a few to help inspire you. So next time you're sitting on the couch thinking to yourself that you should be doing something, grab a plan for one of these top woodworking projects and get out and enjoy your woodworking.
For more articles and [http://timberfurnitureplans.com]great woodworking ideas go to [http://timberfurnitureplans.com]timberfurnitureplans.com and get access to much more.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Top-Woodworking-Projects-for-You&id=6640803] Top Woodworking Projects for You
It's coming up to Christmas again, and that means holidays for many of us. If you are like me and love to get away for a vacation, it's probably your favourite time of the year. I also like to use the opportunity to finish the current projects I have under construction and/or start new ones. Maybe you can use some of your free time to get stuck into some woodworking. If you need some ideas or having trouble getting motivated I have put together a list of top woodworking projects for you.
Do you know someone expecting a new member of the family to come along soon? If you do, you should think about making them a cradle or cot. This is a great furniture plan and can be handed around the family as new babies come along through the years. It gives great satisfaction making furniture for the ones we love. I have just recently built a bed with drawers for our 17 month old so we could use the cot for the new baby.
You could also make a nice armchair or rocking chair for when mummy has to get up through the night to feed the new baby. A chair is a great idea and with the extra skill required for this woodworking project you better get started. With the comfort of a handmade piece of furniture you'll be sure to earn some serious brownie points with the new mother. There's nothing like a due date to get a project under way.
I bet you've always wanted to build a kitchen table, well now is your chance. Everybody needs somewhere to sit down and eat their dinner. The festive season is a great time to have friends and family over for a meal and your guests will be impressed by a piece of furniture that you built with your own two hands. A very practical woodwork design and your wife will be happy for you to spend some time in your work shed. An alternative to the kitchen table could be a coffee table or have a go at making dining chairs.
If you want to try your hand at some carpentry and the weather suits, you could build a shed for your garden tools and sporting equipment. You will get a real sense of achievement from building a shed, even if it is a small garden shed. I enjoy getting out in the sun and doing some 'hard' work. Once you have built this you will have the confidence to take on something bigger next time, maybe a great big woodwork shed for yourself.
Here are the Top Woodworking Projects for You with some alternatives:
Build a Cradle
Build a Cot
Build an Armchair
Build a Rocking Chair
Build a Deck Chair
Build a Kitchen Table
Build a Coffee Table
Build some Dining Chairs
Build a Hall stand
Build a Garden Shed
Build a Pergola
Build a Carport
That's just a few to help inspire you. So next time you're sitting on the couch thinking to yourself that you should be doing something, grab a plan for one of these top woodworking projects and get out and enjoy your woodworking.
For more articles and [http://timberfurnitureplans.com]great woodworking ideas go to [http://timberfurnitureplans.com]timberfurnitureplans.com and get access to much more.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Top-Woodworking-Projects-for-You&id=6640803] Top Woodworking Projects for You
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