How To Apply A Shellac, Oil, Or Lacquer Finish

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_J_Ellis]Kenneth J Ellis
SHELLAC FINISH
Shellac is made from the secretion of the lac insect. Proper thinning of the shellac is a vital part of the correct application. The concentration of shellac in alcohol is known as its cut. Most shellac on the market is 4 or 5 pound cut. The cut is indicated on the label. For almost all purposes, shellac will require thinning with alcohol. The proportions are the same if you are thinning a pint or a gallon. For example: "If you wished to thin a pint of 4-pound cut to a 2-pound cut, you would use 3/4 pint of alcohol to 1 pint of shellac". A 4-pound cut is the best for general use. When thinning, use only pure denatured ethyl or grain alcohol. Before you use shellac, shake or stir it thoroughly. The first two coats should be thinned to a 2 pound cut and the final coat should be 4 pound cut. Shellac comes in three types: orange, 'bleached' or white and dewaxed. White is best for most work and orange is used for dark wood or darkly stained woods.
SATIN RUBBED FINISH
This finish is ideal for most furniture. Here are some pointers for applying shellac to obtain a satin rubbed finish:
1. Apply enough coats of shellac so the last one shines. (four or more) Allow time for each coat to dry. Test for drying by trying to make a thumb print.
2. Sand lightly with #400 grit paper. Dust with a brush and wipe with a cloth after each coat.
3.Allow several hours for the final coat to dry completely, then rub with 3/0 steel wool until there is absolutely no shine remaining. After the gloss has been removed by rubbing with steel wool, sprinkle the surface with dry 2/0 pumice and brush lightly. Dust and wipe off the surface and apply at least two coats of wax.
POLISHED RUBBED FINISH
This finish is for high grade furniture that requires extreme smoothness and high polish. Surfaces should be completely smoothed with paste filler before the finish is applied. The steps are similer to the satin rubbed finish but usually six or more coats should be applied. When the entire surface has been completed, wipe it off with soft rags and allow to dry completely. When a highly polished finish is desired, it may be obtained by a final rubbing with rottenstone and a linseed oil mixture after the surface has been completely cleaned. Then apply at least two coats of wax.
OIL FINISH
An oil finish is one of the oldest for hard or close grained woods. The old-fashioned oil finish is accomplished by using a mixture of two-thirds boiled linseed oil and one-third pure turpentine. It requires from five to twenty coats. The process should be repeated until no dull spots remain. Allow at least two days between the first two coats and from a week to a month between later coats. Each coat must be dried before another coat is applied. Because of the time involved, most do-it-yourselfers would rather use the following method:
First coat: Apply one-third raw linseed oil and two-thirds turpentine. Allow 24 hours to dry.
Second coat: Apply pure boiled linseed oil. Dry for 24 hours.
Third coat: Same as second coat.
Fourth coat: Mix and apply on half 'boiled linseed oil' and one half japan drier. While applying, watch for tackiness and rub off with burlap. Complete the finish by rubbing with pumice and oil, then with 3/0 steel wool as described earlier.
LACQUER FINISH
Lacquer has replaced varnish ans shellac as finishes in the furniture making field because it is easy to spray and dries quickly for fast production. For the home handyman, the lacquer system isn't widely used because spray equipment is necessary. If your shop is equipped with an air compressor and a spray gun, it's fairly easy to learn. Lacquer offers a hard, durable, waterproof surface that will withstand high heat without becoming sticky. The surface is transparent and brings out the beauty of the wood grain when a natural finish is desired. Lacquer is the fastest drying finish ever developed. The drying time is 1 1/2 to 2 hours as compared to quick-dry paints, varnishes, and enamels, which require at least 4 hours.
Spraying Technique: The best spraying method requires a pressure of 30 to 40 pounds. As a general rule, using a spray gun at this pressure, you can get by with a single coat. Before beginning the spraying job, be sure the equipment is clean, and make sure it works properly by trying a test pattern on waste material. Apply the spray in even lines across the surface moving parallel with the work. Handling a paint sprayer is an art that comes with practice. Soon you'll be spraying like a pro.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Apply-A-Shellac,-Oil,-Or-Lacquer-Finish&id=6762925] How To Apply A Shellac, Oil, Or Lacquer Finish

What Are Your Favourite Woodworking Tools?

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Lucas_K_Everett]Lucas K Everett
If you have a bunch of tools in your shed you probably have a favourite one. Is it a plunge saw, a router or is it a set of chisels? My favourite would be my cordless drill. I am a cabinetmaker by trade and my area of expertise leans towards kitchen and flat panel joinery. Cordless drills are a necessity in the kitchen industry. My cordless drill is great, and a little bit fun because it has quick release attachments.
Keyless chuck
Angle chuck
Eccentric chuck
Quick release screw tip holder

This stuff makes getting in to tight spaces really easy.
Another one of my favourite woodworking tools would be my biscuit joiner, I can just about join anything together with it. It's great for joining miter's because when it comes to the glueing and clamping process, I can get a neat and flush join because of an angle adjustable stop.
My favourite hand tool would be my block plane, it's a small version of the no.4 hand plane that fits in the palm of your hand. It comes in handy for little jobs like arrissing timber mouldings and easily stores in the top tray of my tool box.
Every time we go to the hardware store my wife has to tear me away from the tool section. My woodworking tool collection would be 3 times the size it is now if I wasn't married. I truly love shopping for woodworking tools, it's a pity they are just so expensive. There are many super cheap manufacturers, but the quality just isn't suitable for trade use. I've tried cheap tools like angle grinders and sanders from time to time and found immediately that the quality of the machine is just not anywhere near those made by reputable companies. I did only pay $15 each for these tools so the quality is obviously not going to be to the same standard as a $120 tool. I suppose if you are on a tight budget or maybe it is something that you only use once or twice a year, these more affordable versions might be just for you.
Timber furniture is more of a passion for me. I don't get to work too much with solid timber because my wife prefers modern white painted furniture, so I make most of my projects from mdf. I do have an old timber china cabinet with lead light glass that I'm restoring. I found it at a yard sale and got it pretty cheap. It had a few coats of paint on it and even the glass had been painted. Yard sales are a great way to find these little gems, but it does take some patience and persistence. I have also picked up lots woodworking tools at these types of sales.
All sorts of Squares
Spokeshave
Sliding bevel
Marking gauge
Coping saw
Set of chisels

I look forward to the day I can get myself some real machinery. I think my first 5 will be:
Thickness planer
Table saw
Dust extraction
Surface planer
Linisher

I don't yet have a shed big enough to set up any static woodworking machinery so I have to do all my work with hand and power tools. I usually buy my timber dressed to size if I can. There are lots of cabinet makers in my town so if I need some timber to be dressed or large panels to be put through a drum sander I take it to them. There is a pretty good range of aluminium tables and stands that can integrated with the plunge saws and routers, but for now I have to make do with a pair of saw horses and a sheet of board for a work bench.
Lucas Everett welcomes you to http://www.timberfurnitureplans.com to receive some free plans or simply learn more about his woodworking style.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Are-Your-Favourite-Woodworking-Tools?&id=6776714] What Are Your Favourite Woodworking Tools?