By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=David_Chett]David Chett
Okay, you've decided to man up and take on your own wood working project. You need wood for your project and not just any kind of wood but the perfect type of wood. You find yourself at the lumberyard and have absolutely no idea what to look for. No need to worry, this article covers what to look for and will help you when you consider buying wood for woodworking.
The first to note is choosing the correct type of wood is going to lead you to success. You see, wood has its own personality and each type acts differently. That's why you need to know what to look for. While keeping this in mind, know that that you don't need to be an expert to construct beautiful and luxury wood projects but you do need to be aware of a few key points. Let's take a look at some of these points below:
Grades of Wood- Every single type of wood has a grade that is assigned to it. When we refer to "grade," we mean the quality of the wood. For example, wood that contains knots and cracks in it will yield a lower grade of wood. For starters, find the type of wood with the fewest defects and don't find yourself relying on the grade of the wood. Inspect it yourself and don't let the price scare you off (you're making beautiful and luxury art work, remember?) If you plan to paint the wood, choosing a lower grade will be okay but remember that when the quality is lower, so is the over strength.
Milling - When we talk about how wood is milled, know that there (3) three ways that we can refer too: plain-saw (cutting the board on all sides starting from the outside and traveling to the center), through and through (this method is the easiest and most efficient way to cut a log), quarter-sawn (when buying wood for woodworking, this type of board is the least efficient route to take but the most attractive).
Choose the Correct Cut - While talking about the wood cuts, we refer to plain sawn which is the most common type of wood in the lumber yard. These types of boards also bend and warp easier than the other type of cuts due to the direction of the grain in the wood. Rift-sawn which are the middle of the line when speaking of price but have a straight pattern in the grain. Quarter-sawn are the most expensive of the three boards and could be considered better of the (3) three boards also. Consider all types when planning your project. There's no reason to rush into a decision.
While we could go farther into depth, the above will get you started without overwhelming you. Consider these the basics when you debate buying wood for woodworking. You'll need to learn all of these if you want to make a useful hobby from the woodworking and if you wish to be successful in your future projects. Give it a shot and remember to be patient. You need to walk before you run!
Want to learn about more ways to get your brain flowing when thinking about [http://www.answersforwoodworking.com/designing-in-wood//]woodworking beginner projects? Consider visiting my website at [http://www.answersforwoodworking.com]Answers for Woodworking which also provide helpful tips on all aspects of woodworking.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-to-Consider-When-Buying-Wood-for-Woodworking---Its-Important&id=6682593] What to Consider When Buying Wood for Woodworking - It's Important
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Monday, February 27, 2012
Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
To build a storage shed in your backyard takes planning and creativity. Most sheds are constructed from wood when built from scratch, others are assembled from shed kits and are generally constructed with plywood or metal. Some sheds, however, are built using brick because the owner wants to match the construction of the house or because the owner believes he is adding strength to the structure.
Perhaps one remembers the story of the Three Little Pigs and fears the big bad wolf blowing down his outdoor shed. Nevertheless, a brick shed will outlast a more traditional wooden shed if neither structure is maintained.
Look, if you maintain your shed then either construction material is just fine. For this reason and this reason alone, I only recommend building a shed in from brick if, and only if, your decision is aesthetic and not structural. Any well-built shed will last several lifetimes if properly maintained.
That being said here is a brief five-step guide for building a brick storage building or shed in your backyard.
Step 1
The first step in any construction project is to determine the location of the shed. Make sure you choose a location that is relatively flat, has good drainage, is not directly on any property line, is not too close to trees which may cause problems for your shed roof or foundation (remember trees have a large root system below the surface). Also make certain that your shed foundation is not interfering with any electrical, cable or water lines. Overlook any one of these and you'll have a potentially costly problem on your hands.
One other thing to think about at this stage is to make absolutely certain that your shed design complies with local building codes and zoning ordinances. The best way to do this is to apply for a permit. In some cases, if you live in a planned community, you may need permission to build the shed from your Home Owner's Association. Don't make the mistake of not asking because the HOA has broad powers to make you comply with their decisions.
Step 2
Once all approvals and permits are obtained it is time to clean the area where your shed will be built. Remove any debris, roots, weeds, rocks, and other hindrances. Level the ground if necessary. Using a chalk line or stakes, draw an outline of the shed's footprint on the ground.
Step 3
Now it is time to start digging. Your task is to create a foundation for your shed. Building a strong foundation determines the strength and stability of your shed and is a step that must not be taken lightly. Depending on where you live, you'll need to dig to a depth that is just below the frost line. This will assure that your shed will not heave due to ground swells caused by expanding soil due to freezing. Your minimum depth for a solid foundation is eight inches and most areas require no more than thirty-six inches. It is best to check with your local building department to know the exact depth to dig. You can rent a small back hoe or trenching machine, or you can hire an experienced excavator to do this step for you. You want the bottom of your trench level all the way around.
The outside of the trench must be about one inch beyond the outline of your building and should be four to six inches wide. Now using 2x6 lumber and stakes, create a form extending above the level of the ground.
Step 4
It's time to pour concrete for your foundation. Pour the concrete to a level of about two to three inches above ground level. Unless you are a martyr call your local concrete supplier and order a truck with the right amount of yardage to fill the hole. Tell the company the dimensions and they'll tell you just what you need. Ask for advice about the mix needed for strength and permanence for your area. Make sure the top of the foundation is relatively level though it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth. Leave the concrete to set. In about 24 hours remove the forms but don't toss the material away. You can reuse it for door frames and other things like ceiling joists. Normally this is the time to call for your first inspection. Do so before you proceed.
Now you may want to pour a concrete slab for the shed floor. Again call your concrete supplier and tell him your dimensions. A 3 to 4 inch slab is sufficient for your purposes. You'll also want to buy some rebar or wire mesh to add strength and stability to the slab.
Step 5
Now mark the foundation walls for rough door openings making sure you account for the finished size of the opening and go wide enough to accommodate that size. Also, if you are adding windows make sure you know where to leave openings for the rough opening as well.
Spread your bricks on the ground and set a level string around each wall of the shed. Mix a batch of mortar (rent a mortar mixer from your local home center) and apply a layer of mortar to the foundation to accommodate around 5 to 7 bricks. Lay bricks one at a time making sure they are level. Use the string as a guideline. Repeat all around the foundation wall. As you build layers repeat the same idea but place your bricks so they are centered over the space between the two bricks below. Repeat until you have reached the height of your building.
At the door and window openings you'll need to place a header across the top of the opening so the bricks above will remain in place. You can use a thin steel header or a piece of 4x4 timber to act as a header. Don't overlook this step.
The final step is to build your roof. This is a common shed building activity so I won't go into that here. When you build a storage building from bricks you have to pay attention to the details of the construction process. Follow these steps and you'll build a strong brick shed.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/build-storage-building]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Build-a-Storage-Building:-A-Five-Step-Guide-for-Building-a-Brick-Shed&id=6683786] Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
To build a storage shed in your backyard takes planning and creativity. Most sheds are constructed from wood when built from scratch, others are assembled from shed kits and are generally constructed with plywood or metal. Some sheds, however, are built using brick because the owner wants to match the construction of the house or because the owner believes he is adding strength to the structure.
Perhaps one remembers the story of the Three Little Pigs and fears the big bad wolf blowing down his outdoor shed. Nevertheless, a brick shed will outlast a more traditional wooden shed if neither structure is maintained.
Look, if you maintain your shed then either construction material is just fine. For this reason and this reason alone, I only recommend building a shed in from brick if, and only if, your decision is aesthetic and not structural. Any well-built shed will last several lifetimes if properly maintained.
That being said here is a brief five-step guide for building a brick storage building or shed in your backyard.
Step 1
The first step in any construction project is to determine the location of the shed. Make sure you choose a location that is relatively flat, has good drainage, is not directly on any property line, is not too close to trees which may cause problems for your shed roof or foundation (remember trees have a large root system below the surface). Also make certain that your shed foundation is not interfering with any electrical, cable or water lines. Overlook any one of these and you'll have a potentially costly problem on your hands.
One other thing to think about at this stage is to make absolutely certain that your shed design complies with local building codes and zoning ordinances. The best way to do this is to apply for a permit. In some cases, if you live in a planned community, you may need permission to build the shed from your Home Owner's Association. Don't make the mistake of not asking because the HOA has broad powers to make you comply with their decisions.
Step 2
Once all approvals and permits are obtained it is time to clean the area where your shed will be built. Remove any debris, roots, weeds, rocks, and other hindrances. Level the ground if necessary. Using a chalk line or stakes, draw an outline of the shed's footprint on the ground.
Step 3
Now it is time to start digging. Your task is to create a foundation for your shed. Building a strong foundation determines the strength and stability of your shed and is a step that must not be taken lightly. Depending on where you live, you'll need to dig to a depth that is just below the frost line. This will assure that your shed will not heave due to ground swells caused by expanding soil due to freezing. Your minimum depth for a solid foundation is eight inches and most areas require no more than thirty-six inches. It is best to check with your local building department to know the exact depth to dig. You can rent a small back hoe or trenching machine, or you can hire an experienced excavator to do this step for you. You want the bottom of your trench level all the way around.
The outside of the trench must be about one inch beyond the outline of your building and should be four to six inches wide. Now using 2x6 lumber and stakes, create a form extending above the level of the ground.
Step 4
It's time to pour concrete for your foundation. Pour the concrete to a level of about two to three inches above ground level. Unless you are a martyr call your local concrete supplier and order a truck with the right amount of yardage to fill the hole. Tell the company the dimensions and they'll tell you just what you need. Ask for advice about the mix needed for strength and permanence for your area. Make sure the top of the foundation is relatively level though it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth. Leave the concrete to set. In about 24 hours remove the forms but don't toss the material away. You can reuse it for door frames and other things like ceiling joists. Normally this is the time to call for your first inspection. Do so before you proceed.
Now you may want to pour a concrete slab for the shed floor. Again call your concrete supplier and tell him your dimensions. A 3 to 4 inch slab is sufficient for your purposes. You'll also want to buy some rebar or wire mesh to add strength and stability to the slab.
Step 5
Now mark the foundation walls for rough door openings making sure you account for the finished size of the opening and go wide enough to accommodate that size. Also, if you are adding windows make sure you know where to leave openings for the rough opening as well.
Spread your bricks on the ground and set a level string around each wall of the shed. Mix a batch of mortar (rent a mortar mixer from your local home center) and apply a layer of mortar to the foundation to accommodate around 5 to 7 bricks. Lay bricks one at a time making sure they are level. Use the string as a guideline. Repeat all around the foundation wall. As you build layers repeat the same idea but place your bricks so they are centered over the space between the two bricks below. Repeat until you have reached the height of your building.
At the door and window openings you'll need to place a header across the top of the opening so the bricks above will remain in place. You can use a thin steel header or a piece of 4x4 timber to act as a header. Don't overlook this step.
The final step is to build your roof. This is a common shed building activity so I won't go into that here. When you build a storage building from bricks you have to pay attention to the details of the construction process. Follow these steps and you'll build a strong brick shed.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/build-storage-building]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Build-a-Storage-Building:-A-Five-Step-Guide-for-Building-a-Brick-Shed&id=6683786] Build a Storage Building: A Five Step Guide for Building a Brick Shed
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
Sheds come in all sizes and shapes and are built for many varied purposes. An often overlooked shed design plan is for building a firewood shed. I want to address that oversight right now.
Firewood, no matter whether you cut it yourself or buy it from a supplier, is a costly investment either in terms of labor or cold hard cash. It is important to keep your firewood dry and ready to go because if your wood gets wet it doesn't burn efficiently and you'll get a great deal of smoke and steam produced as the fire burns. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow then building a firewood shed may just be the answer to the problem of keeping your firewood dry and ready for use no matter what the conditions might be.
As with any shed design, the location of your shed is of paramount importance and should not be taken lightly. You want to put the shed in an area where the ground drains well, is preferably higher than low points on your property and is likely to have more natural protection from rain and snowfall than other points in your yard. It should also be built close to the house so that in times of heavy rain or snow or when the temperature is blisteringly cold, you don't have so far to walk to collect firewood for burning. I like to build a firewood shed using one outside wall of the house as the back wall of my shed.
A simple roof, on that has a rather steep slant to it will assure that rain and snow easily slides off the roof and is directed away from the dry firewood being stored inside.
I also like to build the shed with an open front in order to make access to the wood easy for both initial storage and for retrieval when needed.
That's why most firewood sheds are built with only three sides. In addition to the access issue, the open front allows for air circulation which contributes to keeping the firewood completely dry. It is important to keep the open front facing away from the prevailing direction of the wind in your area. In the Northern Hemisphere that means that the front of the shed should face south.
In order to further protect your firewood from moisture, the floor of the shed should slant slightly toward the open front and you should line the floor with a strong plastic sheeting material.
Of course, most firewood sheds are actually quite small. As you stack wood in the shed, if you only stack a single row of cut firewood, your shed needs to be no more than 3 to 4 feet wide. This width will provide adequate protection from rain and snow. They don't have to be too tall either. If you are storing a cord of wood, then about 4 feet high and 6 feet long will be sufficient.
It should go without saying but, as with any construction project, obtaining the best shed design plan is crucial to the success of your project. Having the right plans will assure that your project proceeds without a hitch.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-design-plan]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Design-Plan:-Building-a-Firewood-Shed&id=6687156] Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
Sheds come in all sizes and shapes and are built for many varied purposes. An often overlooked shed design plan is for building a firewood shed. I want to address that oversight right now.
Firewood, no matter whether you cut it yourself or buy it from a supplier, is a costly investment either in terms of labor or cold hard cash. It is important to keep your firewood dry and ready to go because if your wood gets wet it doesn't burn efficiently and you'll get a great deal of smoke and steam produced as the fire burns. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow then building a firewood shed may just be the answer to the problem of keeping your firewood dry and ready for use no matter what the conditions might be.
As with any shed design, the location of your shed is of paramount importance and should not be taken lightly. You want to put the shed in an area where the ground drains well, is preferably higher than low points on your property and is likely to have more natural protection from rain and snowfall than other points in your yard. It should also be built close to the house so that in times of heavy rain or snow or when the temperature is blisteringly cold, you don't have so far to walk to collect firewood for burning. I like to build a firewood shed using one outside wall of the house as the back wall of my shed.
A simple roof, on that has a rather steep slant to it will assure that rain and snow easily slides off the roof and is directed away from the dry firewood being stored inside.
I also like to build the shed with an open front in order to make access to the wood easy for both initial storage and for retrieval when needed.
That's why most firewood sheds are built with only three sides. In addition to the access issue, the open front allows for air circulation which contributes to keeping the firewood completely dry. It is important to keep the open front facing away from the prevailing direction of the wind in your area. In the Northern Hemisphere that means that the front of the shed should face south.
In order to further protect your firewood from moisture, the floor of the shed should slant slightly toward the open front and you should line the floor with a strong plastic sheeting material.
Of course, most firewood sheds are actually quite small. As you stack wood in the shed, if you only stack a single row of cut firewood, your shed needs to be no more than 3 to 4 feet wide. This width will provide adequate protection from rain and snow. They don't have to be too tall either. If you are storing a cord of wood, then about 4 feet high and 6 feet long will be sufficient.
It should go without saying but, as with any construction project, obtaining the best shed design plan is crucial to the success of your project. Having the right plans will assure that your project proceeds without a hitch.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-design-plan]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Design-Plan:-Building-a-Firewood-Shed&id=6687156] Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
Thursday, February 23, 2012
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Markfield]John Markfield
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
Sunday, February 19, 2012
How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Friday, February 17, 2012
How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_J_Ellis]Kenneth J Ellis
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
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