By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
Sheds come in all sizes and shapes and are built for many varied purposes. An often overlooked shed design plan is for building a firewood shed. I want to address that oversight right now.
Firewood, no matter whether you cut it yourself or buy it from a supplier, is a costly investment either in terms of labor or cold hard cash. It is important to keep your firewood dry and ready to go because if your wood gets wet it doesn't burn efficiently and you'll get a great deal of smoke and steam produced as the fire burns. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow then building a firewood shed may just be the answer to the problem of keeping your firewood dry and ready for use no matter what the conditions might be.
As with any shed design, the location of your shed is of paramount importance and should not be taken lightly. You want to put the shed in an area where the ground drains well, is preferably higher than low points on your property and is likely to have more natural protection from rain and snowfall than other points in your yard. It should also be built close to the house so that in times of heavy rain or snow or when the temperature is blisteringly cold, you don't have so far to walk to collect firewood for burning. I like to build a firewood shed using one outside wall of the house as the back wall of my shed.
A simple roof, on that has a rather steep slant to it will assure that rain and snow easily slides off the roof and is directed away from the dry firewood being stored inside.
I also like to build the shed with an open front in order to make access to the wood easy for both initial storage and for retrieval when needed.
That's why most firewood sheds are built with only three sides. In addition to the access issue, the open front allows for air circulation which contributes to keeping the firewood completely dry. It is important to keep the open front facing away from the prevailing direction of the wind in your area. In the Northern Hemisphere that means that the front of the shed should face south.
In order to further protect your firewood from moisture, the floor of the shed should slant slightly toward the open front and you should line the floor with a strong plastic sheeting material.
Of course, most firewood sheds are actually quite small. As you stack wood in the shed, if you only stack a single row of cut firewood, your shed needs to be no more than 3 to 4 feet wide. This width will provide adequate protection from rain and snow. They don't have to be too tall either. If you are storing a cord of wood, then about 4 feet high and 6 feet long will be sufficient.
It should go without saying but, as with any construction project, obtaining the best shed design plan is crucial to the success of your project. Having the right plans will assure that your project proceeds without a hitch.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-design-plan]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Design-Plan:-Building-a-Firewood-Shed&id=6687156] Shed Design Plan: Building a Firewood Shed
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Thursday, February 23, 2012
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Markfield]John Markfield
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
The Art of Hand-Making Cricket bats
The art of hand-making cricket bats is known as podshaving. A cricket bat is traditionally made from willow wood, specifically from a variety of White Willow called Cricket Bat Willow. This wood is used as it is very tough and shock-resistant, while also being light in weight.
The stages of making a handmade cricket bat are as follows:
Select the timber, choosing mature trees (between 15-30 years old) & then cut the timber into rounds.
Using woodworking machinery, the cleft will undergo various machining processes to be cut into the basic blade shape. Each willow cleft is unique, so great skill is required to produce the basic shape. Once the blade has been correctly graded and machined, the next stage is the pressing.
In the woodworking pressing process, the fibres have to be compressed to strengthen the timber to withstand the impact of the ball. This process is a balance between strengthening, but still leaving the blade soft enough to play well.
The handle is secured using water resistant wood glue and is allowed to dry overnight.
The bat is next hand shaped by 'pulling off' the willow using a woodworking draw knife. Maximum wood will be kept in the driving area, whilst working the bat to establish the correct balance of the blade, during this action the balance will be tested as an ongoing process. The coarse cuts of the draw knife are smoothed using wooden planes. The toe end of the bat is shaped to an angle to allow for strength and protection.
The bat will then be both coarse and fine sanded.
The handle is bound using twine, then grips are fitted to the handle and labels are applied to the face, back and sides of the bat.
When first purchased most bats are not ready for immediate use and require knocking-in, to allow the soft fibres to strike a cricket ball without causing damage to the bat and allowing full power to be transferred to the shot. This involves striking the surface with an old cricket ball or a special hammer mallet. This compacts the soft fibres within the bat and reduces the risk of the bat snapping. It may also need linseed oil rubbed into the bat, this fills in the gaps in between the fibres.
A good bat correctly knocked in, ideally would last about 1000 runs including net use.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Art-of-Hand-Making-Cricket-Bats&id=6686500] The Art of Hand-Making Cricket Bats
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
We know the power of the elements is astounding, but we may not practically realize just how destructive they can be. The sun, rain, high temperatures, low temperatures, and humidity all play a role in gradually wearing a given material down. Obviously, by keeping an object indoors, you can eliminate the rain and greatly reduce the damaging effects of the others as well.
This is why a structure or DIY project of any kind must be treated accordingly if they are to be permanently exposed outdoors. Wood in particular, depending on type, can be very weak to repeated attacks by the sun and rain. But even before it begins actually rotting and decomposing, it will change shape as it absorbs and desorbs moisture - often considerably.
This change-shape occurs due to a localized expansion or contraction of the wood, manifesting itself in various forms of wood-warping. It follows that if the entire piece would expand or contract in a uniform fashion, the board would only change in dimensions but wouldn't skew or warp. However, this particular scenario will never play out in the real world with boards of any substantial volume or length.
But depending on wood type and the direction of grain, the level of warping can be considerably different. Certain types of wood are simply more resistant to moisture and insects, and quarter-sawn boards - due to the direction of the grain - are more resistant to warping. You put these two qualities together and you get yourself some fairly high-grade boards with which to build outdoors.
An old Table Exhibiting Major Shape-change
Here's a first-hand example of what can happen to a piece of furniture that is left out in the sun and rain with absolutely no regard to its well-being. Granted, the table top isn't a solid piece of wood but a composite of smaller wooden segments, making it significantly weaker to the elements. However, although its time has clearly passed, I'm sure there was once a day when this table was a stunning piece of furniture in its own right.
On dry, sunny days, the rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/handmade-homemade-rustic-dining-table/]table top curls up into the shape of a smile when viewed cross-sectionally. Why? Because the direct sunlight literally sucks the moisture out of the top surface of the table top causing it to contract. This contraction is what pulls the wood into the nice - but impractical - shape of a smile. The opposite occurs on a rainy day. The same top surface will expand, causing it to return to its original flat shape.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Power-of-the-Sun-and-Rain-Against-Wood&id=6691218] The Power of the Sun and Rain Against Wood
Sunday, February 19, 2012
How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aigo_Shimonaka]Aigo Shimonaka
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Incorporating notches in woodworking is something I recommended in a previous article called "Why Wood Notching - Tips and Benefits", but in this article I'm going to cover the step by step process you can use to actually do the job. There are several tools and methods you can choose from to accomplish this task, and I'll be listing them below for your reference:
Good ol' hammer and chisel. This method has been around for a very long time, but its presence has not diminished. When all is said and done, power tools can do many things faster, but there are just those times when the job still requires a hammer and chisel.
Router. By setting the depth on a plunge router to the desired depth, you can simply "plunge" down into the work-piece and quickly remove a uniform depth. But unless you have a template set up, you'll have to stop shy of the outer edge and finish it off by hand - aka hammer and chisel.
Circular saw. By setting the saw blade to the desired depth and slicing perpendicular to the grain, you can make a series of parallel cuts 2 or 3 millimeters apart. After making the required cuts, you simply "knock" and chisel the thin slices of wood out. Note that this method is only practical when slicing perpendicular to the grain (as cuts parallel to the grain would make the clean removal of remaining slices impractical), and when slicing straight across the board.
Power drill. This method is only practical when needing to notch out rather deep notches. Any notches under an inch in depth should be done with a router, as there's just more control that way. However, when needing to go deep, there may not be any other way than to use a drill.
All the above methods have one thing in common. That is that they all need a hammer and chisel to finish the job. Ideally, you'd try to set things up so the power tool can do the whole thing, and there are times when this is feasible. If you're notching the exact same profile repeatedly, you should probably think about rigging up a template of some kind so your router can rip through the entire notch.
But in cases where this isn't feasible, for any number of reasons, you should be prepared to pull out your good ol' hammer and chisel. Most carpenters will have several chisels of different sizes and depending on the size of your notch, you'll need to pick one out accordingly. And due to the fact that two bodies will be colliding rather forcefully (hammer hitting chisel), you should work on a table that can take the expected impact without too much "jump".
Start by measuring and cutting your lines on your work-piece with a cutter knife. That's right, cut your lines. You may already know this technique, but for those who don't, cutting your lines as opposed to drawing them, makes for far more accurate dimensioning. This is of course, limited to lines that will be cut so as to render the damage the cut line caused irrelevant. Pay particular attention when cutting along the grain - it's very easy to get pulled along the grain. The first few passes should be light, gradually increasing in pressure.
Now you can begin removing the material within the marked lines. My first choice for shallow notches - in the half-inch neighborhood - is the router. Take your router, set the depth, and slowly plunge down into the work-piece. Remove the material as close to the marked line as possible after which you can finish it with a hammer and chisel.
Being that you made your markings with a cutter knife, you simply place your chisel into the conveniently prepared cut line - another excellent reason for using a cutter knife for marking. This ensures that the outer boundaries of the notch are clean and straight - as that's the part people will be seeing. The base of the notch should be perfectly flat due to the precision of the router with only the edges slightly rough from the chiseling.
And there you have it! If you don't have the luxury of a rel=nofollow [http://freeandhandy.com/router-basics-for-the-beginner/]router or any power tools, you can still incorporate the basic principles above. You'll just have to chisel the whole thing out by hand instead of relying on the amazingly fast and precise mechanical wonder called the router. Well hey, people have been using hammers and chisels for generations before the advent of power tools and they've gotten along just fine.
If you liked my article please visit my website at [http://freeandhandy.com]Free and Handy for more, thanks!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Notch-Wood-by-Hand-Easily-and-Quickly&id=6691228] How to Notch Wood by Hand Easily and Quickly
Friday, February 17, 2012
How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_J_Ellis]Kenneth J Ellis
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
General Rules for Removing Old Finish
1. Do nothing that will harm the original surface unless the piece is to be painted.
2. If you plan to replace the old finish with a clear type, all old finish must be removed so the new will hold properly.
3. When removing old paint it is not only permissible but acceptable to most collectors that the marks of wear through the years, as well as traces of color from the old paint be allowed to remain so that they will show through the new finish. Traces of old paint add interest to the piece by their variations of color, and are evidence of age. Old paint however, should not be left on in thick patches or blotches.
4. For final cleaning, after using a remover, use a cabinet scraper or knife blade on joints, corners, and angles on flat surfaces. Use steel wool to clean out carvings, turnings, mouldings etc.
5. If the old finish is shellac, you don't need a paint and varnish remover. It can be taken off with denatured alcohol and steel wool.
Selecting Your Paint Remover
Commercial removers are solvents rather than corrosives. They act more slowly on older paints than on new, but they are the only materials that can be used safely. They attack the material such as linseed oils used in paint, or the resins in shellac, varnish, and lacquer. It won't injure a surface by burning it or leaving marks and won't be harmful to glue or raise the grain of the wood. They contain no water and may be used on veneered surfaces without causing the veneer to loosen. When used properly and washed off, solvent-type paint removers leave the surface clean. Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but patience, time, and-following the directions on the container are required.
How to Remove Old Finishes
Dislodging layers of old paint or varnish isn't difficult, but it takes patience, time, ans perseverance. Here are some basic directions for using paint remover.
1. Place the piece to be worked on over layers of old newspaper in good strong light, and if possible, with the top surface in a horizontal position. Avoid working in cold temperatures below 68 degrees F--cold slows down the action of removers.
2. Shake the remover thoroughly, pour a small amount into a small can and apply thickly with a full brush in one direction. Do not rebrush.
3. Let the remover stand for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes, or until the paint or varnish lifts.This is indicated by a crinkling of the surface. Do not let the remover dry. If it begins to dry, apply an additional coat and wait for it to act.
4. When the surface covering has lifted, remove it with a dull putty knife that has the corners rounded off. Remove the accumulation of remover and finish and wipe the knife on a piece of old newspaper.
5. Wipe off as much of the remaining finish as possible using burlap squares.
6. Scrub the surface with a small brush dipped in denatured alcohol.
7. Wipe off with several clean cloths.
8. Rub the surface with steel wool dipped in denatured alcohol.
9. Wipe with cloths dipped in alcohol. This not only cleans the traces of remover from the surface but neutralizes its further action. Follow by wiping with clean cloths dipped in turpentine or paint thinner.Then wipe with dry rags. This will remove any remaining wax or silicone polish that may have been used on the finish in the past. 10. Allow to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours.
Removing Deeply Buried Paints
A deeply buried paint can be removed entirely or partially by a simple procedure. This is paint usually left after you have removed the previous cotes with remover or light scraping. Because it's so simple it's worth trying.
1. Apply a liberal coat of shellac with a brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Use the remover as previously directed. All or part of the buried paint will come off with the shellac. Be sure all traces of the remover is gone and the surface is completely dry before applying a new finish.
"visit http://www.kewoodworking.com "
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Remove-Old-Finish-From-Furniture&id=6687448] How to Remove Old Finish From Furniture
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Don_Koenig]Don Koenig
Building a storage shed on your property is nothing to take lightly. Not only is a shed a big investment of both time and money, it is a big decision as you work through shed plan designs that will work for you. You must consider many things as you make the decision to build. Things like shed size and design that comply with local building codes as well as meet the requirements of any home owner's association guidelines must be made. Then you must decide whether to build the shed yourself or have it built by a contractor. Finally, you must decide on the material you wish to use in building your shed.
Have You Ever Considered Steel
Steel sheds are the choice for storage on many farms today. They are also used as warehouse buildings, garages, and other kinds of structures that require strength and durability with low maintenance requirements.
As a building material, steel is not as expensive as you might assume it to be. Not only can you build a steel shed for right around the cost of a more traditional shed built from wood, the cost to maintain the steel shed over time is significantly less than maintaining wood.
Constructing steel sheds is generally not thought of as a do-it-yourself project. Special equipment like cranes for lifting the skeleton into place are needed to expedite the process. Steel is also not as forgiving as wood to work with. If something doesn't quite align with wood you can make adjustments on the spot. With steel, if the bolt holes are out of alignment you have done something wrong in an earlier step and you'll find it difficult to make necessary adjustments.
Steel construction is generally stronger and more durable than wood construction. That's because steel, made from iron and carbon combined at very high temperatures, is an extraordinarily strong material. Steel is, however, quite hard and parts must be fabricated off site. The steel used in construction will vary in strength based on the percentages of iron and carbon contained in the steel. The more carbon the harder and stronger the steel will be.
Steel shed design is more limited than a wooden shed design. That being said, if you are looking for a basic shed design, say 10 x 20 foot design, you probably aren't looking for a fancy building with gabled roof designs and the like. In that case, a steel shed is just as functional as a wooden shed.
Of course, you must think about maintenance when it comes to any shed building you decide to build. Steel, if taken care of, will last a long time. In the long-run, steel requires less maintenance than wood. You'll never get termites, carpenter ants, or other pests that like to eat the wood found in a traditional shed. Steel doesn't support the growth of fungi or other mold spores and it is unlikely to support mildew as well.
In harsh climates, especially those where snow loads are an issue, steel also is a wise investment. Your steel shed will take a greater snow load and be far less likely to collapse under the weight of a heavy, wet snow.
The point is, of course, when you are considering shed plan designs it is wise to consider building your shed from steel as a viable alternative to building with wood.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-plan-designs]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Plan-Designs:-A-Steel-Shed?-Perhaps!&id=6692497] Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
Building a storage shed on your property is nothing to take lightly. Not only is a shed a big investment of both time and money, it is a big decision as you work through shed plan designs that will work for you. You must consider many things as you make the decision to build. Things like shed size and design that comply with local building codes as well as meet the requirements of any home owner's association guidelines must be made. Then you must decide whether to build the shed yourself or have it built by a contractor. Finally, you must decide on the material you wish to use in building your shed.
Have You Ever Considered Steel
Steel sheds are the choice for storage on many farms today. They are also used as warehouse buildings, garages, and other kinds of structures that require strength and durability with low maintenance requirements.
As a building material, steel is not as expensive as you might assume it to be. Not only can you build a steel shed for right around the cost of a more traditional shed built from wood, the cost to maintain the steel shed over time is significantly less than maintaining wood.
Constructing steel sheds is generally not thought of as a do-it-yourself project. Special equipment like cranes for lifting the skeleton into place are needed to expedite the process. Steel is also not as forgiving as wood to work with. If something doesn't quite align with wood you can make adjustments on the spot. With steel, if the bolt holes are out of alignment you have done something wrong in an earlier step and you'll find it difficult to make necessary adjustments.
Steel construction is generally stronger and more durable than wood construction. That's because steel, made from iron and carbon combined at very high temperatures, is an extraordinarily strong material. Steel is, however, quite hard and parts must be fabricated off site. The steel used in construction will vary in strength based on the percentages of iron and carbon contained in the steel. The more carbon the harder and stronger the steel will be.
Steel shed design is more limited than a wooden shed design. That being said, if you are looking for a basic shed design, say 10 x 20 foot design, you probably aren't looking for a fancy building with gabled roof designs and the like. In that case, a steel shed is just as functional as a wooden shed.
Of course, you must think about maintenance when it comes to any shed building you decide to build. Steel, if taken care of, will last a long time. In the long-run, steel requires less maintenance than wood. You'll never get termites, carpenter ants, or other pests that like to eat the wood found in a traditional shed. Steel doesn't support the growth of fungi or other mold spores and it is unlikely to support mildew as well.
In harsh climates, especially those where snow loads are an issue, steel also is a wise investment. Your steel shed will take a greater snow load and be far less likely to collapse under the weight of a heavy, wet snow.
The point is, of course, when you are considering shed plan designs it is wise to consider building your shed from steel as a viable alternative to building with wood.
Don Koenig has been a professional carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. He offers tips and ideas for building sheds an other woodworking projects at [http://www.designsforsheds.com]Designs for Sheds. Right now he is offering a free gift of a 24 page basic shed plan for a [http://www.designsforsheds.com/shed-plan-designs]12 x 8 Shed. Why not visit his site and see what all the fuss is about.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Shed-Plan-Designs:-A-Steel-Shed?-Perhaps!&id=6692497] Shed Plan Designs: A Steel Shed? Perhaps!
Monday, February 13, 2012
How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Steve_Wilmer]Steve Wilmer
There are many tools that are needed to craft fine wooden projects, but none as underutilized as the router. Routers have really evolved over the years from its bulky cousin the shaper. Many factors come into play when choosing the correct router for your woodworking projects. With these tips you will gain a better understanding of what each router has to offer and which will be best suited for the wood projects you have in mind.
One of the first things you should look at when considering a router is the location of the on/off switch. It should be placed so that you can reach it without letting go of the handles. Other standard features to look for are a base with a clear view to the bit so you can see where you are routing, a speed control so you can use various sizes of bits and, finally, a dust collection port. These items aren't mandatory but they will make your woodworking projects easier. If you have already purchased a router, don't worry. You may not have to buy a new one because you can add these features to most routers with some accessories. You can purchase a clear universal base that you can attach to most routers with some simple layouts to align them to your router.
Speed controls are important if you would like to use large bits such as raised panel bits. These bits require slower rpm's because of their size. You can add an external speed control to your router to adjust the speeds as needed allowing you to use these larger bits on your wood projects.
One last feature that you should look at before considering a specific router is the collet that holds the bit to the router motor. The most versatile routers can accept a 1/4" and 1/2" collet so you can use a wide variety of bits. The collet should also have multiple segments. If the collet only has two or three segments there is the possibility the bit will slip, however if there are multiple segments there will be many contact points on the bit and the bit won't slip. Be careful when loading the bits because many people make the error of over tightening the bits and this can cause unnecessary wear on the collet.
Along with the variety of features to choose from, there are also various styles of routers to choose from: fixed base, plunge router, laminate trimmer, and miniature router. For most of the common woodworking functions, you will do well with a fixed base or a plunge router. There are even routers available with interchangeable bases so you don't have to choose, you can just switch between fixed base and plunge base.
After you have chosen the style that you would like you should also consider other projects you will be attempting so you have an idea of other accessories you will need. It is a good idea to consider a router table which allows you to mount the router upside down and feed your stock over the bit instead of holding the router and running the bit over your stock. If you can't find a table that fits the router you have chosen, you can always make your own table which is sometimes a much better choice because you can customize it to your specific needs.
If you keep these features and needs in mind when choosing a router I am sure you will get a tool that you are not only very pleased with but that will also last for years of your carpentry needs. Just remember, when comparing costs, if you spend a little more on the perfect router you can quite possibly eliminate the need for a different style of router later. Good luck in your search for your perfect router. With a little a little patience and these tips in mind I know you will find it.
Steve Wilmer is the owner of WilmerWoodWorks and operates http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com which provides free woodworking plans, great woodworking ideas and instructional videos. WilmerWoodWorks also offers handmade wooden crafts for the young and the not-so-young, including toys, home decor, furniture and gizmos. There are items for sale online at [http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store]http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store. In addition, we will provide custom pieces at your request.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Perfect-Router-for-Your-Woodworking-Projects&id=6689721] How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
There are many tools that are needed to craft fine wooden projects, but none as underutilized as the router. Routers have really evolved over the years from its bulky cousin the shaper. Many factors come into play when choosing the correct router for your woodworking projects. With these tips you will gain a better understanding of what each router has to offer and which will be best suited for the wood projects you have in mind.
One of the first things you should look at when considering a router is the location of the on/off switch. It should be placed so that you can reach it without letting go of the handles. Other standard features to look for are a base with a clear view to the bit so you can see where you are routing, a speed control so you can use various sizes of bits and, finally, a dust collection port. These items aren't mandatory but they will make your woodworking projects easier. If you have already purchased a router, don't worry. You may not have to buy a new one because you can add these features to most routers with some accessories. You can purchase a clear universal base that you can attach to most routers with some simple layouts to align them to your router.
Speed controls are important if you would like to use large bits such as raised panel bits. These bits require slower rpm's because of their size. You can add an external speed control to your router to adjust the speeds as needed allowing you to use these larger bits on your wood projects.
One last feature that you should look at before considering a specific router is the collet that holds the bit to the router motor. The most versatile routers can accept a 1/4" and 1/2" collet so you can use a wide variety of bits. The collet should also have multiple segments. If the collet only has two or three segments there is the possibility the bit will slip, however if there are multiple segments there will be many contact points on the bit and the bit won't slip. Be careful when loading the bits because many people make the error of over tightening the bits and this can cause unnecessary wear on the collet.
Along with the variety of features to choose from, there are also various styles of routers to choose from: fixed base, plunge router, laminate trimmer, and miniature router. For most of the common woodworking functions, you will do well with a fixed base or a plunge router. There are even routers available with interchangeable bases so you don't have to choose, you can just switch between fixed base and plunge base.
After you have chosen the style that you would like you should also consider other projects you will be attempting so you have an idea of other accessories you will need. It is a good idea to consider a router table which allows you to mount the router upside down and feed your stock over the bit instead of holding the router and running the bit over your stock. If you can't find a table that fits the router you have chosen, you can always make your own table which is sometimes a much better choice because you can customize it to your specific needs.
If you keep these features and needs in mind when choosing a router I am sure you will get a tool that you are not only very pleased with but that will also last for years of your carpentry needs. Just remember, when comparing costs, if you spend a little more on the perfect router you can quite possibly eliminate the need for a different style of router later. Good luck in your search for your perfect router. With a little a little patience and these tips in mind I know you will find it.
Steve Wilmer is the owner of WilmerWoodWorks and operates http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com which provides free woodworking plans, great woodworking ideas and instructional videos. WilmerWoodWorks also offers handmade wooden crafts for the young and the not-so-young, including toys, home decor, furniture and gizmos. There are items for sale online at [http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store]http://www.wilmerwoodworks.com/store. In addition, we will provide custom pieces at your request.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Perfect-Router-for-Your-Woodworking-Projects&id=6689721] How to Choose the Perfect Router for Your Woodworking Projects
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